![]() I find it much easier to just use a regular 13mm box-end wrench (ring sopanner), as getting the S-wrench on and off of the nut is very difficult (walls on the box (ring) end are too thick). Note: Some people use a 13mm S-wrench (ring spanner) to remove the front nut. Make sure to have the front nut (front is front-of-car) brightly lit so you can see what you're doing. Remove the distributor cap to provide access, then remove the two nuts (13mm) from the studs on the carburetor flange.Stow the cable ballel clamp and screw in a safe place so you can find them later (small parts). Loosen the screw in the accelerator cable barrel clamp, then pull the cable forward out of the pin.Disconnect the wire to the electromagnetic cutoff valve (16).Disconnect the wire to the automatic choke heating element (40).Detach vacuum hoses if you have them if you have no vacuum hoses, remove the caps from the vacuum ports on the carburetor.Detach the fuel hose from the carburetor and quickly plug it to minimize fuel leakage (a pencil works great for this).Disconnect the hoses and blow-by (breather) tube from the oil filler to the air cleaner, then remove the air cleaner and set it aside.This valve shuts off the idle fuel when the ignition key is turned off, preventing the engine from "running on". You should hear a distinct "click." If you hear the click, the valve is okay - otherwise, it must be replaced. Touch the wire to the electrical connector on the idle solenoid valve. ![]() Remove the wire from it, then turn on the ignition (do not start the car). Before removing the carburetor, check the operation of the idle solenoid cut-off valve.Nomenclature and part number (referring to the exploded view).įillister head screw and lock washer (upper Following that is a listing of the parts, giving General exploded view of the 34PICT/3 Carburetor is shown in theįollowing diagram. Would be a good idea to read this procedureįollowing topics related to the 30 PICT/2 and 3 and 34 PICT/3 and 4 ![]()
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